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Our America

1/26/16 – Endless vistas of flat ochre fields, craggy mountain peaks that stretch to the far horizon, night skies so vast you can sense the curvature of the…

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Travelers’ Currency

12/13/15 – We all have those traveler’s secrets. The places you somehow just stumbled upon or heard about through a convoluted string of friends of friends of friends,…

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Full Circle

10/10/15 – I looked at the photo again, more carefully—it couldn’t be—but it was. The image was attached to an email we’d sent to Bali bellyaching about the…

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On Top of the World

10/04/2015 – Mt. Bromo: I pulled my newly-bought wool cap down further over my ears and clung to my plastic cup of aggressively sweet ginger tea, shivering slightly…

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Hati-Hati: A Brief Ethnography of the Javanese Motorist

9/29/2015 – Java is an island of middling size afloat in the Indian Ocean in the western part of the Indonesian archipelago. It is known for its coffee,…

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The Holy Grail of Torajaland

9/24/2015 – **Warning: Not recommended reading for the faint of heart or weak of stomach** “I’ve never bought cigarettes before,” confessed James as he passed over 150,000 rupiah…

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A Victory for Bali

9/21/15 – As we sat propped on pillows at a low table on the beach in Sanur, lanterns glowing in the trees and colorful fishing boats bobbing along…

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Forests & Urban Jungles

9/17/15 – DME: 2 hours Ural Airlines, Ellinair, Lot, Vim, Transaero, Uzbekistan Air—the planes dotting the runways in Moscow immediately signaled that I was somewhere off any map…

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Backwaters & Reflections

3/3/2014 – As we moved south from the festival site, traversing bumpy roads leading through the outskirts of Thrissur and Cochin, the landscape got progressively wetter and more…

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Uthralikavu Pooram

3/2/2014 – The first sign of the Uthralikavu festival came as we drove into town and saw a huge wooden gate, lashed together with rough coconut fiber ropes…